The ground will do the insulating for you. For an energy-efficient option, use sprayed-foam insulation. (I'm the kind of guy that likes things done right the first time, (If possible.)) Thanks Chris. Any suggestion on what to do here? Is it an issue if I have to build the framed wall out an inch or two away from the rigid foam boards? It also offers continuous insulation, greater R-value and won’t lead to mold … Any large gaps are locations air can enter (or escape depending on the season). Rigid foam is combustible so by code must be sealed in by a thermal barrier of either drywall or 5.5" of Roxul, with the latter providing added insulation in a critical heat loss zone + provide sound dampening to the above floor. Hi Jason, Walls are insulated and dry walled. I have been getting mixed results when researching, use paper backed, dont use paper back, use vapor barrier, use vapor retarder, dont use any vapor barrier or retarded with the xps foam boards. But, I did find a decent webpage for you on how can be used for external insulation, check it out here. Each Halo® product features a high-performance graphite polystyrene core, plus an ingenious laminate surface that is customized to its precise usage application, giving you today's most advanced rigid insulation envelope. We ensure that the boards fit together using the factory joints, and then return later to tape all seams. If a studded wall is not required, you can install furring sticks on the foam and attach the drywall onto this. I've not been able to find any information on rigid foam around existing pipes. This is the first step that I will need to do and thought I would just pass on what I have learned and what I am planning on doing. Living in the moderately warm climate of Virginia and not having any obvious moisture concerns and a limited budget I opted to just use what was there. The remaining 1/4 is the laundry area, furnace and storage. Unlike the fiberglass insulation, it will not hold the water needed for mold to develop and spread. I have a well in my laundry room. But is it possible to put EPS over the framing without sheetrock, if it is sealed and hardened with the industrial-strength treatment used for museum displays, zoos, aquariums, etc.? I don't need it finished as it won't be a true living area, but would appreciate the R-value. I really prefer the Enerbond ( or Great stuff wal and floor foam adheasive), but don't want to use an adhesive that will eat in to my foam board. Diy How To Install Basement Insulation. Help ! Frame an interior 2x4 stud wall at 24 inch centres, pressed tightly against the foam panels. I know you posted this article a long time ago, but I just came across it. Many come with tongue and groove joints but either way I recommend putting a bead of polyurethane or acoustic sealant or spray foam between each panel and around the wall parameters and sealing all seams with tuck tape. I'd like to add insulation and figured batt insulation made the most sense since the walls are already framed, but wasn't sure if I need a vapor barrier or something else between the batts and the wall. XPS foam must also be covered with drywall as per fire code and I wouldn't recommend putting drywall directly on top of the foam. Adam, you are incorrect here. One of the preferred products for insulating foundations is Dow XPS extruded polystyrene foam, commonly called “blue board” in the trades. If so, which one? Do you see any drawback to that? You can install foam insulation board on the walls of a basement to keep it cool or to warm it up. I am partially refinishing my basement. - Then, cover my walls with a vapor RETARDER, not barrier. When installed correctly, foam board can create an air barrier. If I want to save room and only put up a sheet of 1” thick board then I get an R-value of 5 for the board. I had to make multiple trips to HD to get the 30+ sheets home. Now all the sheet-rock/dry wall has to be removed. I have an unfinished basement. So unfortunately my contractor and I have parted ways, and he's got my money. Make sure the foam boards run from the floor to the underside of your floor deck above. For attaching to the walls, I plan to use some adhesive, but also use plastic fasteners, probably two per sheet. Obviously a good chunk of change. I skimmed this page and didn't see this - so sorry if it's already been mentioned. But that XPS foam in your rim joists must be, and may first also require a vapor barrier installed over the foam. I wouldn't use a vapor barrier between floors, but others may disagree. Can I put XPS on the joist over existing batt? Fyi, depending on your climate zone and your building code, you may be required to add a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so I'd look into that. Use marker or pencil for marking the area where you will make cuts. Using rock mineral wool like Roxul should keep pests out (considered pest-resistant and insects like termites hate it, but they will burrow thru foam!) I need some help please. Frame the 2×4 wall before the spray foam is installed, with a gap of about 2 in. You still have to seal everything up. Halo® is the Advanced Graphite Insulation System that's designed perfectly for specific applications. 4. The draft stopping has to bridge the space between a stud wall offset from the foundation wall, and has to run parallel to the studs... i.e. Could I just paint the insulation? You could use thinner XPS, they come in many sizes, but just remember the thinner you go, the small the R rating. As the water vapor moves through the XPS, it is slowly equilibrated with the warmer temp of the room. mortar, cement patch, caulk, etc.) Click here to ask a question or leave a comment. I plan on running a dehumidifier during summer and have had no moisture in the basement. I would use an unfaced batt insulation under the entry way. Im about to finish my concrete basement walls. Like drywall, install full pieces covering windows and later once the adhesive is fully cured, come back and cut out your openings with the drywall saw. We have a Tuff-n-Dri basement waterproofing/insulation system installed on the outside of our home. The other is against the garage wall. ), others don't. Effective insulation can help you cut heating and cooling costs and keep your home more comfortable all year. Try to keep the seams tight. Paint it with DryLok? A guy at the home store suggesting applying smaller strips to the foam and hanging the drywall from this. Not because of the weight, but the size is awkward to transport. Is this true?? climate zone, you may be required to install a vapor barrier or smart membrane that conforms to code on the warm side of the wall. If you have to cut it up to fit between studs, you are going to have to cut it VERY precisely so as not to loose R value from having gaps between the studs. Simple right? So, you want: concrete, XPS, fiberglass insulation or empty void, dry wall, paint. By comparison, drywall for that same basement was $400. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall, 7 Basement Finishing Secrets (the pros won't tell you). Certainly a bit higher on cost, but if your budget allows it, its provides an excellent insulating option and peace of mind. Also can I put it in between the studs in other areas? Good luck to anyone trying to figure out their insulation, I still don't know what to do, haha! Step 2 My basement wall has a "step in it." It did OK when scoring along the 4' lengths, but not to well along the 8'. It also offers continuous insulation, greater R-value and won’t lead to mold growth. There are existing framing base plates attached to concrete slab floor. It also has a couple of disadvantages. If so, can I apply paneling to it? Very insightful, thank you Theodore. I have a cinder block house and the basment is already framed. Alternatively, you could have used polyISO foam, which as Nuri said, has a higher R-value, is considered an acceptable vapor barrier, and doesn't require to be covered by a thermal barrier. Hi Kathy - Sorry, I can't really advise on that issue specifically. this Stanley is under $10 and gets great reviews. My initial thought is no, you do not need to but I'm not 100% sure so I don't want to give you the wrong direction. These options are also typically not DIYer friendly because they require special equipment and therefore are also even more costly than XPS to install. I don't want problems in the future. My question is; do I need anything additional to the paint and XPS/spray foam/tape to ensure a good vapor barrier? It is easy to install and does not need any special equipment. Is the foil faced rigid board the PolyISO that you mention? Note: the pink panther guy is there, so you know it's good. The first thing I learned, and probably one of the things most people overlook in trying to make their basement more comfortable, is that you need to insulate the rim joists. I live in Northern Virginia. http://www.ifinishedmybasement.com/basement-waterproofing/rigid-foam-insulation/, https://quiktherm.com/insulating-basement-walls-in-canada/. Here at Concord Carpenter we strongly recommend using Closed Cell spray foam to insulate a below-grade basement wall. It's going to be a lot of work, but I so don't want to use any fiber batts. The board is more expensive than blanket insulation. There are two problems with this. Thanks for the great insight! ground basement apartment? 4 Pitfalls Of Spray Foam Insulation. If you remove the nails from your foundation walls be aware you may have just opened leak paths. Aside from R Value, there is still some benefit to using batts in the stud wall in addition to XPS on the foundation wall (as opposed to fiberglass batts without using XPS). I just put a bunch of 2 inch thick XPS on my foundation walls and I ended up using about a full tube of adhesive per 4x8 board. Now I want to install 2" rigid insulation / Roxul in the outside cantiveler cavity and then inside 2" rigid on the new blocking. Thanks so much for the help. Calif has prop 65 compliance and CARB about toxic product/materials being used in building. Can I apply paneling to the rigid board? I know some people who have laid rigid insulation directly on the concrete floor and the laminate directly on the rigid board. I am thankful that I detected this web site, just the One reason I ask is because about the thickest OC XPS rigid foam I can find around here is 1 1/2"... Can I install 1 in XPS then FG in the bays against osb? I only planned on using the XPS in the finished areas. Read here for more info on fire blocking. Depending on the level of insulation needed the stud cavity may be insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool. We ended up having to cut sheets into smaller sections to get them to cooperate = added install time. I currently have the basement preframed from a previous owner. Oh, and if your local building code requires you to have a vapor barrier, then that has to also extend up and into the floor joists and sealed over the foam you put in... then cover with Roxul and/or drywall. Call 1-855-350-4256 today! Hey Linda - You don't technically have to put drywall over it. What are your thoughts? EMAIL US NOW to schedule an in-store meeting, or call us at 855.350.HALO (4256) to learn more about rigid insulation Halo® Interra®. Again, in colder regions, it's most definitely advisable to then put up a 2x4" wood stud wall spaced 24" OC with a pressure treated base plate. Any ideas? Which would you recommend? And fyi, people seem to be so unaware of this, but depending on your climate zone you may be required by code to also install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so check with your local code. I noticed a corner in the basement where there is a door to the outside. I want to maximize the insulation on the above grade wall. Against the wall not containing the door on the floor for 10 ft and against the wall containing the door on the floor heading away from the corner for 5 ft there was styrofoam about 2 inches thick by at least 4 inches above the floor level; I don't know how much below basement floor level. ]. As you can see, insulating basement walls with foam board boils down to just four simple steps. The following is a great example of proper DIY basement insulation. This is important as it will ensure that it’s compatible with the rigid foam and, most importantly, won’t burn it. Blanket Insulation: This is very common mainly because it is very cost effective. The rest of the wall will be constructed as described earlier. I would then leave the below grade basement rooms with empty stud bays. When I moved in a gutted the entire basement and now I am finishing it. It came with a 30 year warranty. Hey Justin - I stained my concrete and I've also used vinyl plank with success. It's a little more expensive but I have explained several times throughout this thread it's benefits over fiberglass, so read them above. I was told that the studs should not touch the rigid foam insulation, Yes, it should not touch. From what you described, at this point it doesn't make a whole lot of sense financially or functionally to go with XPS. Framing will be covered with drywall. 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